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Channel Islands: Anacapa, Ventura, California

Took a girl’s trip this past weekend to the Channel Islands off the California coast. It was a last minute deal that materialized on Friday afternoon. The plan was to drive up to Ventura from LA post the Friday evening rush hour and eat dinner locally in Ventura. Leaving later was a great idea, since we made it in just over an hour. It’s a good idea to stay in Ventura if a) you want to be centrally located from the Channel Islands Ferry Terminal, Ojai, Santa Barbara, and Camarillo Outlets and b) you’re on a budget. The Marriot was a great choice – spacious, recently updated room, excellent breakfast buffet, and a decent pool area.

Saturday morning we drove down to Oxnard Harbor, which is a 15 min drive from the hotel right down Harbor Ave. Island Packers leads the pack (no pun intended) for excursions to the Channel Islands with pick-ups and drop-offs at specific times daily. Ours was a two-tiered boat with 20 passengers. We left at 9:30a. It’s advisable to bring a sweatshirt or a light jacket since the morning winds can be chilly especially on the one hour boat ride. Leaving the mainland and speeding into the open waters is like popping a Prozac or two. You leave your worries behind and the chains of routine come undone. We spotted some seals right away. Twenty minutes into the waters, we were surrounded by 20-30 dolphins. An overcast sky reduced visibility, but it was still amazing to see them dashing in and out of the water racing alongside the boat. No artificially simulated experience comes close to seeing a creature in the environment where nature intended it to be. Anacapa is beautiful on approach. It reminded me of sailing to Mokolini crater off Maui, but this was much grander. I had seen pictures, yet I was captivated. I wondered how our ancestors felt coming across new landmass on their dingy boats with primitive equipment and understood why conquering undiscovered terrain has been an eternal part of man’s psyche.

Anapaca emerges from the ocean like a lopsided molten lava cake complete with powdered sugar drizzled on top. Its steep basalt cliffs make entry difficult. The boat docks in cove where the currents are lighter. Below is a kelp forest, stunning gold kelp in absolutely clear turquoise water. Pelicans perch at each nook in the cliffs. We ascend a steep set of stairs to the top. Though Anacapa is home to over 250 species of plants and seabirds, there isn’t much to see on the island except the vistas all around. Here you realize, less can be more. There is beauty in its simple barren landscape surrounded by the ocean. The island has one lighthouse, a deserted ranger station, and a one-room Visitor Center. Anacapa has no water which prevented human inhabitation. Only life are the birds and seals. The foliage is dry consisting mostly of ice-plants which carpet the entire island with its bulbous leaves and occasional pink and orange flowers. The best part of the island is Inspiration Point, the furthest point from the boat dock and at the other edge of the island. It has spectacular views of West Anacapa, a string of narrow eruptions like a black serpent or ribbon, and the other Channel Islands – namely Santa Cruz. Very “Lord of the Ringy”. The hike there was about a mile. Some spectacular views akin to Hawaii. Inspiration Point truly lives up to its name, and sort of the only worthwhile reason to come Anacapa. We stayed for a bit and walked back. The boat picked us up at 2:30p.

The ride back was pure relaxation. The sun was atop. The refreshing salty breeze was in my hair, the water was misting my face. Exactly what I needed after the hike and heat. Cooled off with ice-cream from the boat deli, which serves basic food and beverages. Saw the dolphins again. This time the visibility was great and they were more playful. They raced with our boat for a while, groups of 2-4 splashing in and out, emerging from the other side in seconds. It made my day!

After a change of clothes back at hotel, we headed to Ojai Valley Inn and Spa, a pleasant 15 mile drive. I had heard a lot about this property, and it barely matched my expectations. Though the setting is grand and the décor gorgeous. The landscaping throughout the grounds is exceptional. Each tree is carefully planted and different from the other. It is the quintessential California resort in the foothills of a mountain with Spanish architecture. Whitewashed walls, red brick roofs, colorful tiled floors, and black iron accents. It has a nicely appointed lobby area, pristinely maintained golf course in the shadows of the mountains. We relaxed at the Spa, walked around the grounds, had a pre-dinner drink at Jimmy’s, and dined the Oak Tree Café underneath a full moon. Food was good, but not memorable. This is a great property to bring family as there is something for everyone, but if you’re looking for a private retreat, there are better suited places (like the Post Ranch Inn).

Sunday morning, relaxed in the pool and hit the Camarillo outlets, after a leisurely breakfast. Retail therapy followed by nature therapy. Nothing beats that for a girl.

Posted on Friday, August 31, 2007 at 01:31PM by Registered CommenterDezigal | CommentsPost a Comment

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